 Nairobi happens to be the largest city in Kenya. Always had short stints with it, as twas a place where I would have day visits and then connect flights to other parts of the world. This time around I had 2 days to explore and couldn’t wait to absorb its character beyond modern skyscrapers, fast food restaurants and busy streets. Just to paint a quick picture: it’s as urban as Johannesburg, just on a smaller scale. The rhythm of the city is also fast both day and night. Had planned to link up with my local connects, but my timing was off. Nevertheless, let me give you the lowdown on the “Green City in the Sun”  REQUIREMENTS - Valid passport (Visa free country for South Africans) - Yellow fever card WHERE TO STAY Did a bit of research and found that two areas met my criteria for centrality and quietness: Westlands and Kileleshwa. Ended up booking a lovely apartment on Airbnb, which happened to be in Kileleshwa. I was sold on the spaciousness and the clever use of wall paper, unique light fixtures and wooden floors. The main bedroom was my favourite thing about the space, the bed leaned on a contemporary back wall made up of wood and mirrors, and the Eames inspired furniture completed the look.  CURRENCY R1 = 6,77 Kenyan Shilling $1 = 100,91 Kenyan Shilling *Dollars and Kenyan Shillings are widely used. Most establishments were formal, so cards often accepted, but cash is king. WEATHER Best times to visit Niarobi are June – September . I went in end September, temperature was an average of 20°C with 8hrs of sunshine. No rainfall. Enjoyed wearing strapless tops and light items.  TRANSPORT All forms of transport available from Matatus adorned with Graffiti artwork to trains. Lots of cars on the road causing traffic, but the main thing I would like to highlight about Nairobi that is different to the other parts of Kenya is that Uber and Taxify services were largely available and I heavily relied on my apps to get me around.  FOOD Wanted a real taste of Kenyan food culture and the best thing I did was signing for a cooking class with Agnes of Jikoni Magic, a popular food channel on YouTube. Started the experience with a visit to a fresh produce market named Wakulima Market, there we browsed the aisles in search of the best quality, and bought fresh fruits and vegetables before proceeding to the kitchen. Agnes and Esther had a beautiful energy about them, which made the learning process fun.  Class lasted 6.5 hours and consisted out of the following actions: - Cutting, peeling and grinding - Boiling, frying and simmering We prepared 3 traditional Kenyan dishes: Samaki Wa Kupaka, Mboga Kienyeji and Kimanga. All too yummy, I even went for seconds, got to the apartment and passed out lol Looking to book a longer Nairobi stay in the near future, where I can explore the nightlife and glamping. Til next time! 
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 Three things that make my knees go weak: clear turquoise waters, white sands and palm trees. Instagram posts about Diani Beach ticked all these boxes, making Mombasa my first Kenyan love. Had initially planned to visit this county(which happens to be the smallest in Kenya) back in Summer 2017, but other destinations had to be prioritised due to hectic price inflations in that period. I did not mind postponing my trip as patience always pays off and as such it did in September 2018. Off peak season meant I would have more to spend on the things I like without any compromise. Eager as ever, wrapped up my Lamu stay and flew out to the place of iconic elephant tusks and Blue and White buildings:  REQUIREMENTS
Changed my initial dates, so that I could stay at Sultan Saka House. Spotted this rare find on Airbnb, had an exchange with the welcoming owner and just knew I had to stay there. Had the entire open-plan fortress to myself. Contemporary Swahili design perfection is what I got, with an infinity pool, jacuzzi and massage facility as bonuses. Details, details, details! A private chef came at an additional cost, but proved to be more cost effective than eating out. Bonded with the House Manager and the rest of the awesome staff, they made my stay special. Nowhere else to call home in Diani.  CURRENCY R1 = 6,77 Kenyan Shilling $1 = 100,91 Kenyan Shilling *Dollars and Kenyan Shillings are widely used. Best to have cash on you as most establishments are informal. TRANSPORT For convenience, booked a short direct flight from Lamu to Mombasa via Fly540. Mombasa town and Diani Beach were both busy, with an endless supply of Taxi Cabs, Tuk tuks, Matatus and Boda Bodas ready to get people from point A to B. *Do note that tax is not fixed for each trip as it varies.  WEATHER Average temperature of 29°C in End September – early October, meant a bit of rainfall for Diani Beach. This only lasted a few hours a day, as the weather was mostly sunny. Light coverup recommended for the cool evenings. FOOD Chef Evans at Sultan Saka House prepared traditional dishes for me, everything from chapati to fish stew and breyani. He did a great job at putting a twist on what would usually be consumed as meat dishes, as I only consume seafood. Everything turned out to be yummy! Took extra servings of chapati, which is like an Indian roti just softer and flakier.  ACTIVITIES Admiring views at Diani Beach is a must! While you’re there you can pop into Safari Beach Hotel (hotel closed, but bar still operational) to book a beach chair and sip on a refreshing drink. Multiple operators offer jet skiing coupled with dolphin watching, just got to take your best bet on the one who is seemingly reliable and live a little lol Camel riding is available and can be booked from Forty Thieves Beach Bar and Bistro, which also happens to be a splendid place for snacks and drinks.  SHOPPING Beach Road is where one would go to find goods, as it has a long stretch of street markets. Did not get anything of extreme uniqueness at these markets, but tis worth a visit as different things were on display from wooden ornaments to Kikoyi. One point of interest for me along the same walking path was AfricArt Decor, it had amazing baskets on sale and I could not resist adding more to my collection.  This specific Kenyan coast experience meant lots of beach time for me. Treated it as a way to unwind, appreciate beautiful views and get some stillness. I caught up on some reading, took long walks, made friends and savoured every bite of my chow. Really cannot wait to go back!   Kenya is a destination that I had had on my radar for quite some time. Kept on postponing trips to this country, but finally took the opportunity to see it through this past September: Lamu, Nairobi and Mombasa. Pursued the 3-county trip, as a solo traveler which allowed for exploration on my terms. Let’s start with my Lamu experience: First stopped at Lamu Museum, here I learned everything about the Swahili traditions and cultures from architecture, music, wedding ceremonies, jewellery to different tribes. History dating back to the 14th Century. How else are you supposed to develop a connection with a place without knowing its background?  REQUIREMENTS Kenya is a visa free country for South Africans. All you need is a valid passport. A yellow fever card should also be on your person, as they sometimes ask for this. For uninterrupted connectivity, I bought myself a Safaricom sim card, loaded airtime and data bundles at my convenience. WHERE TO STAY I wanted to immerse my self in Lamu and all its glory, so I stayed in Lamu Town at a luxurious six suites Swahili oasis named Andavelo House, with beautiful renovations and all the amenities one would want. Couldn't recommend it more, for its great staff, attention to detail, spaciousness, delicious food prepared by Abu the chef as well as the cleanliness. Feel free to use my Booking.com code to get a discount. Another amazing place to stay for a modern feel is Ndoto House in Shela, bookings can be made by contacting them on +254 733 455 821.  CURRENCY R1 = 6,77 Kenyan Shilling $1 = 100,91 Kenyan Shilling *Dollars and Kenyan Shillings are widely used. Best to have cash on you as most establishments are informal. WEATHER End September – early October, saw Lamu having at least 9 hours of sunshine with some random showers that didn’t last long. For clear weather, the best times to visit Lamu are reported as late November to end March. TRANSPORT The most convenient way to travel between counties was by flight, managed to book direct flights from Nairobi to Lamu through fly540. It is also important to note that boats are the primary mode of transport between the airport, villages and other islands. Once, in Lamu Town and Shela, you will also find that Donkeys are used as another means of transport by locals and visitors.  FOOD Lamu is an island, so trust that seafood was always on the menu. I mostly had the chef at Andavelo House (where I was staying), prepare meals for me, that consisted out of fish and vegetables. Have to say that this turned out to be the best food I tasted on the island. Otherwise, snacked on sweet or savoury treats like Sim Sim and Bhajia with a cup of Cinnamon Coffee in hand from the Coffee Man at the seafront. Must Try! For sundowners, I went to the infamous Majlis Resort and The Floating Bar & Restaurant Lamu, enjoyed delicious cocktails at both places. Other spots to try in Lamu Town are Whispers Cafe for breakfast, Bush Gardens for fresh smoothies or Moonshine Bar at Lamu House for fish tacos or fish rolls. In Shela, Peponi Hotel was a great option for their White Fish Carpaccio.  ACTIVITIES Activities are often organised through “Captains”, mine was named Swaleh AKA Captain Pagwash. He helped me organise everything from donkey rides, sunset cruises to snorkeling with a beach barbeque on Manda Toto. To contact him dial + 254 714 115908. Also got to witness a Green Sea Turtle hatching on Manda Island, which was quite an awe-inspiring experience. 140+ turtles were born that day and immediately tackled the harshness of the waves. Apparently only 1 in 1000 make it to adulthood and after 25 years, the females return to the same beach to lay their eggs and continue the life cycle. These trips are organised by the Lamu Conservation Trust, all proceeds go to guarding the nesting site and taking count of hatchings. If interested in finding out more do contact Famao AKA The Turtle Man on +254 723 963533.  SHOPPING Shopped at the market by Lamu Fort, where one would find fresh produce and hand crafted goods like basket bags. Bought a lot of unique gifts here for friends and family at affordable prices. In Shela, a must see boutique store is Aman. Twas the only formal store setup that I spotted on the island.  Really appreciated the slow living in Lamu and the fact that I could experience the old and new within minutes. Another thing that made my journey special was meeting the likes of Sandy Bornman AKA @SandyLamu whose in-depth Instagram feed inspired my trip to this island. Trust that I will be making it an annual holiday destination!  |
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